I am so excited: a new star of winemaking was born in Turkey!
Kerasus Winery from Black Sea region of Turkey is the pioneer for many reasons.
The Turkish Black Sea region has amazing grapes but wine producers almost do not exist there. Also Kerasus uses amphoras - very common in old times and in neighboring countries like Georgia, but pretty rare in Turkey.
Grapes they are working with are also unique as they use both Vitis Vinifera and Vitis Labrusca and work with indigenous Turkish grape varieties. Kerasus works on the concept “nothing added, nothing removed” and produces natural wines. This style of wine is a special, niche product and I am not going to compare it with mass market wines. Natural wines can be disappointing sometimes, but this is definitely not a case here.
Vitis Vinifera and Vitis Labrusca together in one amphora?
Yes! I this way “Melez” is produced: it is a very elegant and balanced natural wine. It is made by co-fermentation of Vitis Labrusca (Isabella) and Vitis Vinifera (Narince) in amphora. Winemakers Gizem and Berat have their own tricks to do it properly.
Tasting Notes on Melez by Kerasus Winery
Medium orange/amber
Medium + intensity
Ripe pear, apricots, apple
Dried apricots, sultanas, dried lemon zest, dried rose petals, thyme
Mushrooms, forest floor
Walnut, peanut
Dry
Acidity - medium (+)
Alcohol - medium (?)
Body - medium
Tannins - medium(-) and very smooth
Flavor intensity - medium
Finish - medium
Conclusions: natural but extremely pleasant
Wine structure supported by refreshing acidity, pleasant oxidative aromas are layered which gives complexity to a wine and together with very smooth tannins contributes to its texture. Very good balance of quite high acidity and medium flavors intensity. Pleasant nutty aftertaste.
If you like old school whites from Rioja, you would love this wine.
Goes great as an aperitif and in pair with tapas, mezzes, especially with çerkez tavuğu! Don’t forget to decant it…Wait, since I got my hands on the LAST bottles from the previous vintage, so we all now need to wait for a new vintage. Better follow them to not miss it.
Congratulations to Kerasus and the whole Turkey - on a new name in natural winemaking. Cheers!
More wine notes and stories about Turkish wines here.
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